Hello everyone,
  After lurking for several months I figured I should introduce myself to
the list (also several list members I contacted in private suggested I do
so).  So here is a brief history of how I got here.

I think it all started as a little kid when I would watch PBS every weekend
just to catch woodworking shows.  I loved to watch New Yankee Workshop and I
thought Norm was the coolest.  I also enjoyed watching that show with "the
weird guy who doesn't know about electricity" though always wondered why he
stuck with hand tools.  I thought though that his woodshop/fort in the woods
was cool (remember I was like 6).  My parents house never had room for a
shop and either way I never had money for lumber so while growing up I just
waited.

Through college and for a few years afterwords I lived in apartments which
are uncondusive to the large shop required for tools with sparking tails.
Finally I bought a house 2.5 years ago and decided it was finally time to
start woodworking myself.  I bought used (way cheaper) wood working machines
and learned two things.  First that I rather enjoy restoring old machines
and two that I hate using almost anything powered by electricity.  I found
myself using my hand tools that I had bought from a borg store for odd jobs
around the house more and more for my woodworking tasks.

Eventually I bought my first woodworking book, Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking
and saw that many things were possible with hand tools.  I also remembered
watching St Roy as a child.  It was an epiphany of sorts.  At about the same
time my parents got me a subscription to PW and I started visiting their
website.  One of the blog posts was either about egg beater drills or bit
and brace (I cant remember which one) and suggested Sandy Moss's site to buy
said tools.  This was about a year and a half ago.  It has gone down hill
since then...

So far I have built various shelving units and book shelves, shop tables, a
3 bin compost containment unit and am currently working on a coffee table
(once my joints started to look like something other than absolute tragedies
I declared myself furniture ready).  I have also built various shop fixtures
and made myself a marking knife, marking gauge and 2 scratch awls.  I find I
like making tools to use almost as much as furnature.

My wife recently got into lathe work in order to make drop spindles and
various other tools for hand spinning yarn.  In the process I discovered
that I also enjoyed turning even though it was a tailed beastie.  I now have
a shop full of old tools and a love of using them.

That, fellow list members, is my "brief" personal woodworking history (you
can also add a bunch of bleeding, some swearing and a little bit of staring
in sadness at parts cut to exactly the right size when I started with wrong
measurements to begin with.

I did have two questions for the list.  The first is for some recommended
reading.  I want to set up and use a small charcoal forge in my back yard to
make more tools.  Does anyone have a good recommendation for a beginners
book on blacksmithing, especially for those of us stuck in suburbia.

The second is an identification and use question.  This past Christmas my
parents knowing my new found love bought me a box of rust (literally, all of
the tools needed a lot of love to get working).  It was one of the best
presents I have ever received and now I have a bunch of tools that work
beautifully.  There is one exception though.  It was a spoke shave that some
previous owner "restored".  And by restored I mean it looks like he took the
blade and chip breaker to a wire wheel and then just rustoliumed the whole
body without removing the rust first.
After filing the paint off of the machined surfaces and back far enough from
the sole to stop leaving black streaks on the wood I thought I had a very
comfortable spoke shave.  It was far more comfortable than the Stanley 151
that also came in said box o rust.  Unfortunately the chip breaker will not
hold the blade in position under use.  I have not tried excessive force but
no tightness of the screw in the center or the top will hold it.  Does
anyone know a remidy for this situation.

Also I have no idea what it is.  The blade has the Stanley rule and level
"arch" logo.  I think I can make out "Balleys patent" on one handle and a
date ending in 1858 on the other.  It is hard to read under the thick cover
of paint and getting a rubbing on a curved surface eludes me.

Since without pictures it didn't happen so here are a few pictures (please
excuse the bad camera work,  I was too lazy tonight to get out my light tent
and non phone camera):

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#5481762876098890226

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#5481762451649823298

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#5481762010909582178

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#5481761802444720082

Outside of woodworking I am a software engineer working for a small legal
publishing company.  If you live in the northeast in a medium sized town
there is a good chance my company codified and published your town code.  I
am 28 and have a wife and a naughty cat named President Nixon.

Anyway... Hi!

  Bob (from Rochester, NY)
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Welcome, from way down South...near the Bayou (and, unfortunately the
creeping crude)

Your mystery shave is most likely a Stanley #51. I'm no expert; but do
have a boat load of post-Katrina experience of rehabbing old tools. My
first thought was, "He's got a blade that's used up and won't adjust any
further." But, the pics of the blade don't really show that. Your adj.
screw for the lever cap should easily tighten down completely. If not,
work on it. Though the lever cap looks a little high on the frame, it
should work. Replacement blades are available from several sources.

Again, welcome. We're glad to have young blood join the ranks.

Arch, near NOLA

--- On Sat, 6/12/10, Bob Miller  wrote:

> From: Bob Miller  Subject: [OldTools] Introducing
> myself to the list To: oldtools@r... Date: Saturday, June 12, 2010,
> 1:39 AM Hello everyone, =A0 After lurking for several months I figured
> I should introduce myself to the list (also several list members I
> contacted in private suggested I do so).=A0 So here is a brief history
> of how I got here.
>
> I think it all started as a little kid when I would watch PBS every
> weekend just to catch woodworking shows.=A0 I loved to watch New
> Yankee Workshop and I thought Norm was the coolest.=A0 I also enjoyed
> watching that show with "the weird guy who doesn't know about
> electricity" though always wondered why he stuck with hand tools.=A0
> I thought though that his woodshop/fort in the woods was cool
> (remember I was like 6).=A0 My parents house never had room for a
> shop and either way I never had money for lumber so while growing up
> I just waited.
>
> Through college and for a few years afterwords I lived in apartments
> which are uncondusive to the large shop required for tools with
> sparking tails. Finally I bought a house 2.5 years ago and decided it
> was finally time to start woodworking myself.=A0 I bought used (way
> cheaper) wood working machines and learned two things.=A0 First that I
> rather enjoy restoring old machines and two that I hate using almost
> anything powered by electricity.=A0 I found myself using my hand tools
> that I had bought from a borg store for odd jobs around the house more
> and more for my woodworking tasks.
>
> Eventually I bought my first woodworking book, Tage Frid Teaches
> Woodworking and saw that many things were possible with hand tools.=A0
> I also remembered watching St Roy as a child.=A0 It was an epiphany of
> sorts.=A0 At about the same time my parents got me a subscription to
> PW and I started visiting their website.=A0 One of the blog posts was
> either about egg beater drills or bit and brace (I cant remember which
> one) and suggested Sandy Moss's site to buy said tools.=A0 This was
> about a year and a half ago.=A0 It has gone down hill since then...
>
> So far I have built various shelving units and book shelves, shop
> tables, a 3 bin compost containment unit and am currently working on a
> coffee table (once my joints started to look like something other than
> absolute tragedies I declared myself furniture ready).=A0 I have also
> built various shop fixtures and made myself a marking knife, marking
> gauge and 2 scratch awls.=A0 I find I like making tools to use almost
> as much as furnature.
>
> My wife recently got into lathe work in order to make drop
> spindles and various other tools for hand spinning yarn.=A0 In the
> process I discovered that I also enjoyed turning even though it
> was a tailed beastie.=A0 I now have a shop full of old tools and a
> love of using them.
>
> That, fellow list members, is my "brief" personal woodworking history
> (you can also add a bunch of bleeding, some swearing and a little bit
> of staring in sadness at parts cut to exactly the right size when I
> started with wrong measurements to begin with.
>
> I did have two questions for the list.=A0 The first is for some
> recommended reading.=A0 I want to set up and use a small charcoal
> forge in my back yard to make more tools.=A0 Does anyone have a good
> recommendation for a beginners book on blacksmithing, especially for
> those of us stuck in suburbia.
>
> The second is an identification and use question.=A0 This past
> Christmas my parents knowing my new found love bought me a box of rust
> (literally, all of the tools needed a lot of love to get working).=A0
> It was one of the best presents I have ever received and now I have a
> bunch of tools that work beautifully.=A0 There is one exception
> though.=A0 It was a spoke shave that some previous owner
> "restored".=A0 And by restored I mean it looks like he took the blade
> and chip breaker to a wire wheel and then just rustoliumed the whole
> body without removing the rust first. After filing the paint off of
> the machined surfaces and back far enough from the sole to stop
> leaving black streaks on the wood I thought I had a very comfortable
> spoke shave.=A0 It was far more comfortable than the Stanley 151 that
> also came in said box o rust.=A0 Unfortunately the chip breaker will
> not hold the blade in position under use.=A0 I have not tried
> excessive force but no tightness of the screw in the center or the top
> will hold it.=A0 Does anyone know a remidy for this situation.
>
> Also I have no idea what it is.=A0 The blade has the Stanley rule and
> level "arch" logo.=A0 I think I can make out "Balleys patent" on one
> handle and a date ending in 1858 on the other.=A0 It is hard to read
> under the thick cover of paint and getting a rubbing on a curved
> surface eludes me.
>
> Since without pictures it didn't happen so here are a few pictures
> (please excuse the bad camera work,=A0 I was too lazy tonight to get
> out my light tent and non phone camera):
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#54817628760-
> 98890226
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#54817624516-
> 49823298
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#54817620109-
> 09582178
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#54817618024-
> 44720082
>
> Outside of woodworking I am a software engineer working for a small
> legal publishing company.=A0 If you live in the northeast in a medium
> sized town there is a good chance my company codified and published
> your town code.=A0 I am 28 and have a wife and a naughty cat named
> President Nixon.
>
> Anyway... Hi!
>
> =A0 Bob (from Rochester, NY)
> ----------------------------------------------------------------
> --------
> OldTools is a mailing list catering to the interests of hand tool
> aficionados, both collectors and users, to discuss the history, usage,
> value, location, availability, collectibility, and restoration of
> traditional handtools, especially woodworking tools.
>
> To change your subscription options:
> http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>
> To read the FAQ: http://swingleydev.com/archive/faq.html
>
> OldTools archive: http://swingleydev.com/archive/
>
> OldTools@r... http://ruckus.law.cornell.edu/mailman/listinfo/oldtools
>



------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Bob=2C Welcome to oldtools! You wrote (in part) about your Stanley
51 spoke shave=2C "Unfortunately the chip breaker will not hold the
blade in position under use. I have not tried excessive force but no
tightness of the screw in the center or the top will hold it. Does
anyone know a remidy for this situation. Also I have no idea what it is.
The blade has the Stanley rule and level"arch" logo. I think I can make
out "Balleys patent" on one handle and adate ending in 1858 on the
other. It is hard to read under the thick cover of paint and getting a
rubbing on a curved surface eludes me."

At least the body and blade of your shave seem to be appropriate for a
fairly early Stanley No. 51 shave. Stanley continued to produce the
shave body with Bailey's 1858 patent date on the underside of the handle
for quite a period of time=2C and it is usually so heavily japanned that
it is tough to read. The arched logo also was continued for a long while
(into the early 1900s)=2C in a couple of versions. But=2C for a shave of
this vintage=2C I think the fixing screw on the cap is not correct (it
is later=2C probably not earlier than 1909). A more correct screw would
be shaped like an eye ring=2C or have a knurled top with a screw driver
slot. Post-1909=2C Stanley began checkering the No. 51's handle=2C and
yours is not of this vintage. So=2C I suspect that in your shave's
history=2C someone gave it a new fixing screw=2C and probably a new cap
iron--again=2C one not appropriate to the body and the blade of your
shave. So=2C I suspect therein may lie the cause of your problem. You
might cast around for an older cap iron=2C or a newer body and blade.
Best regards=2C Sandy

Tools for Sale list at http://www.sydnassloot.com/tools.htmBrace
Collection at http://www.sydnassloot.com/brace.htm -----------------------------
------------------------------------------
-

Welcome aboard Bob!

I did have two questions for the list. The first is for
somerecommended reading. I want to set up and use a small charcoal
forge in my backyard to make more tools. Does anyone have a good
recommendation for a beginners book on blacksmithing, especially for
those of us stuck in suburbia.

I like Practical Projects for the Blacksmith by Ted Tucker

You can start with an old weber, a hair dryer and some lump charcoal.
Iforgeiron.com and Anvilfire.com (the iforge tutorials are great)
arealso great sources of information.

Michael-Frightening the neighbors since the year Four

-----Original Message----- From: Bob Miller  To:
oldtools@r... Sent: Fri, Jun 11, 2010 11:39 pm Subject: [OldTools]
Introducing myself to the list

Hello everyone, After lurking for several months I figured I should
introduce myselfto the list (also several list members I contacted in
private suggested Ido so). So here is a brief history of how I got here.

I think it all started as a little kid when I would watch PBS
everyweekend just to catch woodworking shows. I loved to watch New
Yankee Workshopand I thought Norm was the coolest. I also enjoyed
watching that show with"the weird guy who doesn't know about
electricity" though always wonderedwhy he stuck with hand tools. I
thought though that his woodshop/fort in thewoods was cool (remember I
was like 6). My parents house never had room for a shop and either way I
never had money for lumber so while growing up Ijust waited.

Through college and for a few years afterwords I lived in
apartmentswhich are uncondusive to the large shop required for tools
with sparkingtails. Finally I bought a house 2.5 years ago and decided
it was finally timeto start woodworking myself. I bought used (way
cheaper) wood workingmachines and learned two things. First that I
rather enjoy restoring oldmachines and two that I hate using almost
anything powered by electricity. Ifound myself using my hand tools that
I had bought from a borg store for oddjobs around the house more and
more for my woodworking tasks.

Eventually I bought my first woodworking book, Tage Frid
TeachesWoodworking and saw that many things were possible with hand
tools. I alsoremembered watching St Roy as a child. It was an epiphany
of sorts. At about thesame time my parents got me a subscription to PW
and I started visiting their website. One of the blog posts was either
about egg beater drills orbit and brace (I cant remember which one) and
suggested Sandy Moss's siteto buy said tools. This was about a year and
a half ago. It has gone downhill since then...

So far I have built various shelving units and book shelves, shoptables,
a 3 bin compost containment unit and am currently working on a
coffeetable (once my joints started to look like something other than
absolutetragedies I declared myself furniture ready). I have also built
various shopfixtures and made myself a marking knife, marking gauge and
2 scratch awls. Ifind I like making tools to use almost as much as
furnature.

My wife recently got into lathe work in order to make drop spindles and
various other tools for hand spinning yarn. In the process I discovered
that I also enjoyed turning even though it was a tailed beastie. I
nowhave a shop full of old tools and a love of using them.

That, fellow list members, is my "brief" personal woodworking
history(you can also add a bunch of bleeding, some swearing and a little
bit ofstaring in sadness at parts cut to exactly the right size when I
started withwrong measurements to begin with.

I did have two questions for the list. The first is for
somerecommended reading. I want to set up and use a small charcoal
forge in my backyard to make more tools. Does anyone have a good
recommendation for a beginners book on blacksmithing, especially for
those of us stuck in suburbia.

The second is an identification and use question. This past Christmasmy
parents knowing my new found love bought me a box of rust (literally,all
of the tools needed a lot of love to get working). It was one of the
best presents I have ever received and now I have a bunch of tools that
work beautifully. There is one exception though. It was a spoke shave
thatsome previous owner "restored". And by restored I mean it looks like
hetook the blade and chip breaker to a wire wheel and then just
rustoliumed thewhole body without removing the rust first. After filing
the paint off of the machined surfaces and back far enoughfrom the sole
to stop leaving black streaks on the wood I thought I had avery
comfortable spoke shave. It was far more comfortable than the Stanley151
that also came in said box o rust. Unfortunately the chip breaker
willnot hold the blade in position under use. I have not tried excessive
forcebut no tightness of the screw in the center or the top will hold
it. Does anyone know a remidy for this situation.

Also I have no idea what it is. The blade has the Stanley rule andlevel
"arch" logo. I think I can make out "Balleys patent" on one handle anda
date ending in 1858 on the other. It is hard to read under the
thickcover of paint and getting a rubbing on a curved surface eludes me.

Since without pictures it didn't happen so here are a few
pictures(please excuse the bad camera work, I was too lazy tonight to
get out my lighttent and non phone camera):

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#548176287-
6098890226

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#548176245-
1649823298

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#548176201-
0909582178

http://picasaweb.google.com/105192907109903453543/Tools#548176180-
2444720082

Outside of woodworking I am a software engineer working for a smalllegal
publishing company. If you live in the northeast in a medium sized town
there is a good chance my company codified and published your towncode.
I am 28 and have a wife and a naughty cat named President Nixon.

Anyway... Hi!

  Bob (from Rochester, NY)
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Galooteratti:

The blade of Bob Miller's Stanley 51 spokeshave is slipping even when the screw 
is tightened down hard.

Bob, could the knurled screw in the cap be bottoming out on the underside of its
 knurled head? This would allow the blade to slip. The solution might be to back
 off the knurled cap screw a few turns and tighten down the slotted body screw a
 few turns. If the slotted screw won't go in further, I would investigate that t
he hole in the body is gunged up with rust or rustoleum. A lot of the time, I ha
ve found, maybe always, the slotted screw will hold the cap and iron firmly enou
gh all by themselves, without the extra leverage of the knurled screw. Just a su
ggestion.

If that doesn't work, try slipping a thick spacer between the blade and the lowe
r end of the knurled screw; a washer with a tiny hole might do. Or try wiping so
me anti-slip sticky stuff on the blade and bed of the shave (watch out, though, 
you still want a bit of slip to adjust it.)

Not speaking from experience, I use a 151, not a 51. But its all worth trying.

Tom Conroy
Berkeley

From: Bob Miller 

The second is an identification and use question.  This past Christmas my
parents knowing my new found love bought me a box of rust (literally, all of
the tools needed a lot of love to get working).  It was one of the best
presents I have ever received and now I have a bunch of tools that work
beautifully.  There is one exception though.  It was a spoke shave that some
previous owner "restored".  And by restored I mean it looks like he took the
blade and chip breaker to a wire wheel and then just rustoliumed the whole
body without removing the rust first.
After filing the paint off of the machined surfaces and back far enough from
the sole to stop leaving black streaks on the wood I thought I had a very
comfortable spoke shave.  It was far more comfortable than the Stanley 151
that also came in said box o rust.  Unfortunately the chip breaker will not
hold the blade in position under use.  I have not tried excessive force but
no tightness of the screw in the center or the top will hold it.  Does
anyone know a remidy for this situation.

      
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bob from Rochester is looking for some reading material:

Welcome aboard.

With regard to recommended reading, if you like making tools and want  
to get started in some simple smithing for that purpose, "Make Your  
Own Woodworking Tools" by Mike Burton has some ideas for small tools  
and a simple starter forge. Also, "The Complete Modern Blacksmith" by  
Weygers, which is not exactly a contemporary work but a reprint of  
something about a century old, can keep your head full of ideas for  
more challenging things to try.

Regards,

JL
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thank you for the advice everyone.  I will be on the lookout for a
replacement cap or at a minimum a replacement fixing screw.  I find the sold
cast handles much more comfortable than the hollow on the underside of my
151's handles.

I plan on finding a local flea market (I have never been to one) sometime
early this summer so hopefully I will have some new found tools to share
with the list in the near future.

Bob
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tom,

"Bob, could the knurled screw in the cap be bottoming out on the underside
of its knurled head? "
The knurled screw is actually very long for what it needs to do.  Even with
it tightened down all the way there is still room to extend it another 3mm
(1/8").  Both screws move cleanly up and down all the way so it is not just
rusted up.  Looking at it again (I ignored it for a month after not being
able to get it work) I noticed that the chip breaker/lever cap doesn't sit
flush across the width of the blade, nor is is square to the line between
the slotted screw and the knurled screw.  I may try filing it to a better
shape.

Bob

On Sat, Jun 12, 2010 at 3:49 PM, Thomas Conroy wrote:

> Galooteratti:
>
> The blade of Bob Miller's Stanley 51 spokeshave is slipping even when the
> screw is tightened down hard.
>
> Bob, could the knurled screw in the cap be bottoming out on the underside
> of its knurled head? This would allow the blade to slip. The solution might
> be to back off the knurled cap screw a few turns and tighten down the
> slotted body screw a few turns. If the slotted screw won't go in further, I
> would investigate that the hole in the body is gunged up with rust or
> rustoleum. A lot of the time, I have found, maybe always, the slotted screw
> will hold the cap and iron firmly enough all by themselves, without the
> extra leverage of the knurled screw. Just a suggestion.
>
> If that doesn't work, try slipping a thick spacer between the blade and the
> lower end of the knurled screw; a washer with a tiny hole might do. Or try
> wiping some anti-slip sticky stuff on the blade and bed of the shave (watch
> out, though, you still want a bit of slip to adjust it.)
>
> Not speaking from experience, I use a 151, not a 51. But its all worth
> trying.
>
> Tom Conroy
> Berkeley
>
>
>
>
> From: Bob Miller
>
> The second is an identification and use question.  This past Christmas my
> parents knowing my new found love bought me a box of rust (literally, all
> of
> the tools needed a lot of love to get working).  It was one of the best
> presents I have ever received and now I have a bunch of tools that work
> beautifully.  There is one exception though.  It was a spoke shave that
> some
> previous owner "restored".  And by restored I mean it looks like he took
> the
> blade and chip breaker to a wire wheel and then just rustoliumed the whole
> body without removing the rust first.
> After filing the paint off of the machined surfaces and back far enough
> from
> the sole to stop leaving black streaks on the wood I thought I had a very
> comfortable spoke shave.  It was far more comfortable than the Stanley 151
> that also came in said box o rust.  Unfortunately the chip breaker will not
> hold the blade in position under use.  I have not tried excessive force but
> no tightness of the screw in the center or the top will hold it.  Does
> anyone know a remidy for this situation.
>
>
>
>
>
>
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hello Bob and welcome
I am totally with you. No 151 featherweight shave compares, in any way, 
to a real solid handle shave, in your hand.
   The adjustable shaves can be made to work, but they can never be made 
to "feel right" once you have held a solid shave.
  I know. I have, and have had, a score of hollow back shaves. But only 
one solid shave so far, and guess which one I reach for, invariably??

   If your screw is too long because it was from a newer shave, put a 
washer under the screw head. If still too long, try a thicker washer. 
Easy peasy.  You can do this today, in 2 minutes.
And welcome to a millrat's view of the world.

    Stanley's blades are great steel, but they are mostly too thin to 
properly close up the mouth of a shave for peak performance.
  Several guys make them.  Rev Ron's blades can't be beat for the price, 
if buying new.
Older Record blades were thicker than Stanley, if scavenging old parts.

  Or.
Since you are getting into making tools, make a new blade yourself.
Try a 12" solid steel circular saw blade as your stock. Some 10's are 
thick enough too. Just eyeball how much clear space you have ahead of 
the blade now, and this is how much thicker a steel you are looking for.
  The paper thin Dremel cutoff wheels will cut perfect and not draw the 
temper, on your second or third try, at worst. ......... If you are 
careful with the cutting (read patient and accurate) you won't harm the 
temper.
   You will find it easy to sharpen and holds its edge long enough too.

  You can later reharden and temper said blade for even longer edge 
retention if you want. But in the meantime you will find the standard 
temper satisfactory.

  Making a new and better lever cap is also another fine project.
Pretty soon you'll be delighted to have a long screw and you'll be 
"lettin her out" to fit your new blade 'n cap. :)
  yous Scott

-- 
*******************************
    Scott Grandstaff
    Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca  96039
    scottg@s...
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
    http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Bob, welcome to the list.

Re your #51 shave, one more thing to check is that the bed isn't  
gunked up from the rustoleum. If the bed is not smooth and flat, the  
blade can move around under the cap iron and is hard to tighten down  
properly. Some careful filing is one remedy if the bed is uneven.

Peter Robinson
Brisbane, Australia

On 13/06/2010, at 7:23, Bob Miller  wrote:

> Tom,
>
> "Bob, could the knurled screw in the cap be bottoming out on the  
> underside
> of its knurled head? "
> The knurled screw is actually very long for what it needs to do.   
> Even with
> it tightened down all the way there is still room to extend it  
> another 3mm
> (1/8").  Both screws move cleanly up and down all the way so it is  
> not just
> rusted up.  Looking at it again (I ignored it for a month after not  
> being
> able to get it work) I noticed that the chip breaker/lever cap  
> doesn't sit
> flush across the width of the blade, nor is is square to the line  
> between
> the slotted screw and the knurled screw.  I may try filing it to a  
> better
> shape.
>
> Bob
>
> On Sat, Jun 12, 2010 at 3:49 PM, Thomas Conroy  >wrote:
>
>> Galooteratti:
>>
>> The blade of Bob Miller's Stanley 51 spokeshave is slipping even  
>> when the
>> screw is tightened down hard.
>>
>> Bob, could the knurled screw in the cap be bottoming out on the  
>> underside
>> of its knurled head? This would allow the blade to slip. The  
>> solution might
>> be to back off the knurled cap screw a few turns and tighten down the
>> slotted body screw a few turns. If the slotted screw won't go in  
>> further, I
>> would investigate that the hole in the body is gunged up with rust or
>> rustoleum. A lot of the time, I have found, maybe always, the  
>> slotted screw
>> will hold the cap and iron firmly enough all by themselves, without  
>> the
>> extra leverage of the knurled screw. Just a suggestion.
>>
>> If that doesn't work, try slipping a thick spacer between the blade  
>> and the
>> lower end of the knurled screw; a washer with a tiny hole might do.  
>> Or try
>> wiping some anti-slip sticky stuff on the blade and bed of the  
>> shave (watch
>> out, though, you still want a bit of slip to adjust it.)
>>
>> Not speaking from experience, I use a 151, not a 51. But its all  
>> worth
>> trying.
>>
>> Tom Conroy
>> Berkeley
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> From: Bob Miller
>>
>> The second is an identification and use question.  This past  
>> Christmas my
>> parents knowing my new found love bought me a box of rust  
>> (literally, all
>> of
>> the tools needed a lot of love to get working).  It was one of the  
>> best
>> presents I have ever received and now I have a bunch of tools that  
>> work
>> beautifully.  There is one exception though.  It was a spoke shave  
>> that
>> some
>> previous owner "restored".  And by restored I mean it looks like he  
>> took
>> the
>> blade and chip breaker to a wire wheel and then just rustoliumed  
>> the whole
>> body without removing the rust first.
>> After filing the paint off of the machined surfaces and back far  
>> enough
>> from
>> the sole to stop leaving black streaks on the wood I thought I had  
>> a very
>> comfortable spoke shave.  It was far more comfortable than the  
>> Stanley 151
>> that also came in said box o rust.  Unfortunately the chip breaker  
>> will not
>> hold the blade in position under use.  I have not tried excessive  
>> force but
>> no tightness of the screw in the center or the top will hold it.   
>> Does
>> anyone know a remidy for this situation.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
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------------------------------------------------------------------------

Peter Robinson wrote:
> Re your #51 shave, one more thing to check is that the bed isn't 
> gunked up from the rustoleum. If the bed is not smooth and flat, the 
> blade can move around under the cap iron and is hard to tighten down 
> properly. Some careful filing is one remedy if the bed is uneven.
>
A nifty little article on spokeshave tune ups

http://www.woodcentral.com/cgi-bin/readarticle.pl?dir=smalser&file=articles_407.
shtml

-- 
Kirk Eppler
Pharmaceutical and Packaging Engineering
eppler.kirk@g...

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