Hello Bob and welcome
I am totally with you. No 151 featherweight shave compares, in any way,
to a real solid handle shave, in your hand.
The adjustable shaves can be made to work, but they can never be made
to "feel right" once you have held a solid shave.
I know. I have, and have had, a score of hollow back shaves. But only
one solid shave so far, and guess which one I reach for, invariably??
If your screw is too long because it was from a newer shave, put a
washer under the screw head. If still too long, try a thicker washer.
Easy peasy. You can do this today, in 2 minutes.
And welcome to a millrat's view of the world.
Stanley's blades are great steel, but they are mostly too thin to
properly close up the mouth of a shave for peak performance.
Several guys make them. Rev Ron's blades can't be beat for the price,
if buying new.
Older Record blades were thicker than Stanley, if scavenging old parts.
Or.
Since you are getting into making tools, make a new blade yourself.
Try a 12" solid steel circular saw blade as your stock. Some 10's are
thick enough too. Just eyeball how much clear space you have ahead of
the blade now, and this is how much thicker a steel you are looking for.
The paper thin Dremel cutoff wheels will cut perfect and not draw the
temper, on your second or third try, at worst. ......... If you are
careful with the cutting (read patient and accurate) you won't harm the
temper.
You will find it easy to sharpen and holds its edge long enough too.
You can later reharden and temper said blade for even longer edge
retention if you want. But in the meantime you will find the standard
temper satisfactory.
Making a new and better lever cap is also another fine project.
Pretty soon you'll be delighted to have a long screw and you'll be
"lettin her out" to fit your new blade 'n cap. :)
yous Scott
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Scott Grandstaff
Box 409 Happy Camp, Ca 96039
scottg@s...
http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/
http://www.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/index.html
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