Hey, we get to add a Galoot from yet another country. Welcome, Lar!
If=20 you can handle the shipping charges, a number of Galoots have
stuff for=20 sale.

I wonder how many countries are now represented on the list?

I have never wanted to get started on japanese chisels. It looks
moredifficult to sharpen them than the good old american ones, not
tomention the initial cost.

On Dec 11, 2007, at 3:37 AM, Par Leijonhufvud wrote:

> I'm new here, amns since apparaently bios are done I thought I'd
> introduce myself.
>
> I live in Sweden, with a mixed biologist background (some research,>
> some bioinfoirmatics currently unemployed teacher). I don't like
> noisy> tools, so the this way of working comes natural to me. I=B4ve
> done mostly green wood stuff and wittling, but aldso have a bunch of
> things that needs to be made (starting with a toolchest that is not a
> mil surplus ugly box with a cluttered interior), and also need to fix
> the holes in my> toolkit (the egg-beater drill needs a new chuck, I am
> short of chisels and decent saws[1]. And planes; all you can find used
> here is economy grade wooden ones, usually ones that have spent the
> last 40 years in a leaky barn.
Jim Thompson, the old millrat in Riverside, CA.

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Par:

Sweden is a beautiful country. What town do you live in? I have old
friends in Lund and Stockholm and have also visited in the Kalmar
region. Nothing more lovely than Kalmar Castle under a full moon.

Cheers!

J

Joseph Sullivan President JSA
(972) 463-1125 -----Original Message----- From: oldtools-bounces@r...
      [mailto:oldtools-bounces@r...] On Behalf Of Par Leijonhufvud Sent:
      Tuesday, December 11, 2007 5:37 AM To: Oldtools Subject:
      [OldTools] Bio: Par Leijonhufvud

I'm new here, amns since apparaently bios are done I thought I'd
introduce myself.

I live in Sweden, with a mixed biologist background (some research, some
bioinfoirmatics currently unemployed teacher). I don't like noisy tools,
so the this way of working comes natural to me. I=B4ve done mostly green
wood stuff and wittling, but aldso have a bunch of things that needs to
be made (starting with a toolchest that is not a mil surplus ugly box
with a cluttered interior), and also need to fix the holes in my toolkit
(the egg-beater drill needs a new chuck, I am short of chisels and
decent saws[1]. And planes; all you can find used here is economy grade
wooden ones, usually ones that have spent the last 40 years in a leaky
barn. /Par

[973] I'm thinking about an order from www.dick.biz for a set of
      japanse ones, since both usefull chisels and saws are hard to
      find around here.

--Par Leijonhufvud par@h... The direct use of force is a poor solution
to any problem. It is generally employed only by small children and
large nations. -- David Friedman
------------------------------------------------------------------------

> all you can find used here is economy grade
> usually ones that have spent the last 40 years in a leaky
>barn. 
>
Par
 You just aren't digging deep enough.
Be the first one there at the swap meet or trade day or whatever they 
call it, every week.
  That hallowed place where ordinary people come together to sell what 
they don't want and buy what they do want.
 The best things will sell to the -very first- person to lay eyes on it 
so, don't be late!
 yours
welcome aboard
Scott

Scott Grandstaff, Box 409, Happy Camp, CA  96039
scottg@s...

Tools <http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/>
Tools <http://oldtoolsshop.com/Galoots/sGrandstaff/>
Kitty's PageWorks <http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/hpages/>
 

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hi Par, and welcome to the Porch.

You could keep keep a eye out for Swedish chisels manufactured by Eskilstuna
makers such as E.A.Berg and Jernboulaget. They are makers held in high
regard by some of us here on the Porch.  These chisels are sometimes still
found in my area of 'old tool hell'  lurking in the bottom of boxes of
"junk" at garage sales or at antique/collectible shops for a couple of
dollars, often with the wooden handles missing or damaged. They are, in my
opinion, quality tools well worth looking for!  I have found the Sandvik
chisels of 1970's vintage, the ones with the black plastic handles, to be
reasonably good user tools as well. Older Sandvik hand saws might also be
real prizes as Sandvik still made a decent line of saws in the early 1980's.
The history of saw making in Sweden might be an interesting subject to
research. Perhaps many small firms were swallowed up by Sandvik over the
years (sound familiar?).

I believe the fine reputation of Swedish Steel came from the manufacture of
quality tools and knives made from the iron ore mined in the Eskilstuna
region, and I think  you should have the chance for some first class rust
hunting in your Country, good luck and thanks for posting your bio.

Marv Paisner
Kootenay Lake, BC, Canada

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Par Leijonhufvud"

I live in Sweden,...........snip.......snip..... I am short of chisels and
decent saws.........

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Par

Welcome, pull up a chair, make yourself at home. Be warned... you can
=20 never have too many saws or too many chisels. And planes, be very
careful when storing planes. We have found that placing two smooth
planes next to each other in a closed tool chest will result in a nest
of block planes. I do agree though that you should fix the holes in your
tool kit. I'ld suggest a good Russell Jennings auger and a dowel plate
to make the plugs.

Best Gary

Gary Roberts toolemera@m... http://toolemerablog.typepad.com/toolemera/
http://toolemera.com/

On Dec 11, 2007, at 6:37 AM, Par Leijonhufvud wrote:

I'm new here, amns since apparaently bios are done I thought I'd
introduce myself.

I live in Sweden, with a mixed biologist background (some research,
some bioinfoirmatics currently unemployed teacher). I don't like noisy
tools, so the this way of working comes natural to me. I=B4ve done
mostly green wood stuff and wittling, but aldso have a bunch of things
that needs to be made (starting with a toolchest that is not a mil
surplus ugly box with a cluttered interior), and also need to fix the
holes in my toolkit (the egg-beater drill needs a new chuck, I am short
of chisels and decent saws[1]. And planes; all you can find used here
is economy grade wooden ones, usually ones that have spent the last 40
years in a leaky barn.

/Par

[1] I'm thinking about an order from www.dick.biz for a set of
    japanse ones, since both usefull chisels and saws are hard to
    find around here.

--Par Leijonhufvud par@h... The direct use of force is a poor solution
to any problem. It is generally employed only by small children and
large nations. -- David Friedman
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Welcome, Par.

And Marv wrote:
> You could keep keep a eye out for Swedish chisels manufactured by
Eskilstuna
makers such as E.A.Berg and Jernboulaget.

I just have one Berg chisel that I ground to use as a skew, but it's great
-- if a judgment based on one tool means anything.

I just have to add that I also went down the Japanese tool path for a
while. Had a few chisels, saws, etc. And though I wouldn't give up my
dovetail dozuki saw for anything, I sold my japanese chisels and have
drifted back to western-style ones. Some japanese chisels are truly things
of beauty, and the steel seems very fine. But I couldn't justify the cost
-- the good ones are so expensive. I also came across a few that weren't
quite straight, and had a mortise chisel that had a parallelogram-shaped
cross section rather than rectangular, causing it to twist as you chopped
down into the mortise. Considering, this was not an inexpensive tool, I
wasn't too happy.

Moreover, Japanese chisel are usually metric, which isn't handy here in
the U.S., though I suppose in Sweden that might be better than old
American or English chisels in inches.

-- Bob in Eugene

------------------------------------------------------------------------

I'm new here, amns since apparaently bios are done I thought I'd
introduce myself.

I live in Sweden, with a mixed biologist background (some research, some
bioinfoirmatics currently unemployed teacher). I don't like noisy tools,
so the this way of working comes natural to me. I=B4ve done mostly green
wood stuff and wittling, but aldso have a bunch of things that needs to
be made (starting with a toolchest that is not a mil surplus ugly box
with a cluttered interior), and also need to fix the holes in my toolkit
(the egg-beater drill needs a new chuck, I am short of chisels and
decent saws[1]. And planes; all you can find used here is economy grade
wooden ones, usually ones that have spent the last 40 years in a leaky
barn. /Par

[1] I'm thinking about an order from www.dick.biz for a set of
    japanse ones, since both usefull chisels and saws are hard to
    find around here.

--Par Leijonhufvud par@h... The direct use of force is a poor solution
to any problem. It is generally employed only by small children and
large nations. -- David Friedman
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Joseph Sullivan  [2007.12.11] wrote:
> Sweden is a beautiful country.  What town do you live in?  

Just outside a small village about 45 km north of Uppsala.

> I have old friends in Lund and Stockholm and have also visited in the
> Kalmar region.  Nothing more lovely than Kalmar Castle under a full
> moon.

Never been to Kalmar, but sitting outside the Visby town wall in the
evening is pretty good.

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                               par@h...
Them that asks no questions isn't told a lie
		-- Rudyard Kipling
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Gary Roberts  [2007.12.11] wrote:
> Welcome, pull up a chair, make yourself at home. 

Will a small stool made from green birch, mostly with an axe, do
instead of the chair?

> Be warned... you can  
> never have too many saws or too many chisels. 

I see you have not met SWMBO. 

> And planes, be very  
> careful when storing planes. We have found that placing two smooth  
> planes next to each other in a closed tool chest will result in a  
> nest of block planes.  

I'll try that, blcok planes are hard to find here.

> I do agree though that you should fix the  
> holes in your tool kit. I'ld suggest a good Russell Jennings auger  
> and a dowel plate to make the plugs.

Various augers in varying states of rust is easy to find here, since
they were used in log construction, so that problem can be solved. No
dowel plate, I'll just have to hand carve those as I need them...

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                               par@h...
"Gun-wielding recluse gunned down by local police" isn't the epitaph
I want. I am hoping for "Witnesses reported the sound up to two hundred
kilometers away" or "Last body part finally located".' --- James Nicoll
------------------------------------------------------------------------

scott grandstaff  [2007.12.11] wrote:
> You just aren't digging deep enough.
> Be the first one there at the swap meet or trade day or whatever they 
> call it, every week.

SWMBO is a flea market addict, so I have a fair notion of what is out
there. Andf since lately old rusty tools have been fashionbkle as
decorator items the supply has dried up a bit. It is allways fun to
argue with the sellers that once you replace the cracked handles, clean
off the rust and sharpen them they'll be usefull.

Best catch was a set of bits for my brace (1/8" to 1", yep, not metric,
imperial).  Still in the original box, in good shape. And a score of
small auger bits for a brace, in less pristine shape.

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                               par@h...
The direct use of force is a poor solution to any problem. It is generally
employed only by small children and large nations.
		-- David Friedman
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Bob Passaro  [2007.12.11] wrote:
> drifted back to western-style ones. Some japanese chisels are truly things
> of beauty, and the steel seems very fine. But I couldn't justify the cost
> -- the good ones are so expensive. 

Looking at Dicks catalogue (a German company similair to Lee Valley, but
with a strong japanophile slant) the mid-range ones are about as
expensive as the prices I see here for new Sandvik or Bacho ones.
Compared to $2 for a good but rusty one in a bin they are pricey, that
is true.

> Moreover, Japanese chisel are usually metric, which isn't handy here in
> the U.S., though I suppose in Sweden that might be better than old
> American or English chisels in inches.

Metric is fine, but I am fluent in inches if needed (I lived for a few
years in Atlanta).

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                               par@h...
Renting airplanes is like renting sex:  It's difficult to arrange on short
notice on Saturday, the fun things always cost more, and someone's always
looking at their watch.		-- Paul Tomplin
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Par & Galoots

The 2008 Lee Valley Woodworking calendar features a collection Berg chisels
on the cover, a chance for us to admire some nice chisels with simple yet
elegant hooped wooden handles. The photo also shows an original shipping box
that held a half dozen 1 1/2" chisels. The link below shows a small picture
of the calendar.

http://www.leevalley.com/gifts/page.aspx?c=1&p=44293&cat=4,104,53217

Marv Paisner
Kootenay Lake, BC

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Par Leijonhufvud"

>....... I do have one chisel by EA Berg. It is 35 mm wide, with a *very*
chunky
> handle .......

------------------------------------------------------------------------

Marvin Paisner  [2007.12.11] wrote:
> You could keep keep a eye out for Swedish chisels manufactured by Eskilstuna
> makers such as E.A.Berg and Jernboulaget. They are makers held in high

I do have one chisel by EA Berg. It is 35 mm wide, with a *very* chunky
handle (about 40 mm wide and squarish, no traces of ferrules). I suspect
it had a new handle a few decades ago.

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                               par@h...
Only in total ruthlessness with no regard for effete issues like human
life can there be victory. Don't you read Baen Books? -- James Nicoll
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Par Leijonhufvud introduces himself and writes:

"And planes; all you can find used here is economy grade wooden ones,
usually ones that have spent the last 40 years in a leaky barn."

Welcome, Par, indeed, to the company of ferrousoxidites and may your
stay be enduring and pleasant.

Although I was originally taught woodwork at school using, in the main,
wooden planes (metal planes were then too expensive and scarce to equip
all of the Queensland schools' manual training shops) I later went
through a stage where I tended to distain them as being "old fashioned"
in favour of their metal cousins. For many years, however, I have been
going through a stage which is likely to see me out, where each old
wooden plane I come by is an unmitigated delight and, usually, a fair
challenge in terms of restoration. I admit I cannot help myself in this
regard. I tend to think of the enormous amount of fine work which was
accomplished over many centuries using wooden planes and am happy to add
a few drops of my sweat to the sweat left on the plane by the man who
went before me.

With planes such as Par describes there is, of course, a bit of the-chicken-and-
the-
egg situation to be faced up to, for a good plane in fine fettle is a
most useful tool to aid in the restoration of an old, somewhat beaten-
up, grooved-sole, wide-mouthed wooden plane with cracks on the sides
adjacent to the abutments and with cracks at either end. However, the
things to be accomplished to get an old wooden plane working well simply
boil down to a sharp iron, a flat sole, a reasonably tight mouth and a
wedge system which holds the iron in place.

First thing is to pin and glue the cracks near the abutments so that the
wedge stays put and does not open the cracks. I usually open the cracks
a bit (just knock the wedge in tightly), put in a bit of two-pack glue,
remove the wedge, sink and set a couple of thin bullet-head nails on
either side into pre-drilled holes and clamp as best I can. Nails hold
well in endgrain (better than screws) and any protrusion of the nail's
head can be easily filed off flush after the glue dries and sets.

Next thing is to soak or repeatedly brush the whole piece, including the
wedge, in raw linseed oil. This closes up most of the end cracks and a
week spent letting the plane soak or brushing it repeatedly does not
seem to be overkill. I am quite happy then to use whiting and linseed
oil putty to stop any of the larger cracks. I have never had any trouble
with it although many of the modern commercial preparations are, no
doubt, better. Actually, red lead and linseed oil putty is a whole lot
better as it sets rock-hard without swelling or shrinking appreciably
but finding a ready source of supply is a bit difficult these days.

Then comes flattening the sole where a fine-set plane in good nick makes
the job the work of a few careful minutes. I have found that, for sole
flattening, there is no such thing as too fine a set on the working
plane. One makes sure that the wedge and iron/s are firmly in place on
the old plane, with, naturally, the edge retracted below the sole whilst
the sole planing takes place. If the sole is to be patched to tighten up
the mouth something workable but less than final flatness is first
achieved. If a good plane is not available for sole-flattening, rasps
and files are the order of the day. They actually enable a gradual but
very accurate sole flattening process to be undertaken. However, a good,
conventional flat-filing technique must be employed or must first be
developed over a couple of hours practice (that is as long/short as it
really takes) and then employed. Simply muscle-memory is everything in
flat-filing and the practice must be undertaken seriously with the mind
concentrated upon getting the workpiece flat and the work checked often
to detect errors in filing which must be got rid of. Nicholson's, I
think it was, used to publish a quite adequate set of instructions and,
maybe, they still do. The whole job can be done with just one file, a
10" smooth-cut. Things take a little longer but one works with the file
which would be used for finishing up in any event.

There exists a plethora of information in older carpentry and wood-
working manuals concerning the re-mouthing of planes with patches
and a vast body of contradictory information concerning the
sharpening of irons so I shall leave things there except to say
that, once a wooden plane has been properly restored, it will remain
a joy forever to the user.

Regards from Brisbane,

John Manners
------------------------------------------------------------------------

Marvin Paisner  [2007.12.12] wrote:
> The 2008 Lee Valley Woodworking calendar features a collection Berg chisels
> on the cover, a chance for us to admire some nice chisels with simple yet
> elegant hooped wooden handles. The photo also shows an original shipping box
> that held a half dozen 1 1/2" chisels. The link below shows a small picture
> of the calendar.

Then I have one more of the Berg chisels, but with a handle in a sorry
state (split where the tang goes in). Trying to decide of I should try
glue, or just give up and make a new one.

/Par

-- 
Par Leijonhufvud                               par@h...
"Legacy (adj): an uncomplimentary computer-industry epithet that
 means 'it works'."		-- Anthony de Boer
------------------------------------------------------------------------