OldTools Archive
Recent | Bios | FAQ |
158443 | scott grandstaff <scottg@s...> | 2006‑03‑20 | Re: New Galoot intro and questions |
>Question #2: >After lurking for a while I'm starting to appreciate all the old stuff my >dad used to have when I was a kid. Unfortunately, most of those tools are >long gone. One item I do have is a pre-leather man multitool knife set that >was supposedly my grandfathers. It has everything except a pair of pliers. >Each tool snaps into the handle as needed. Made by the Napanoch Knife Co. >of Napanoch, NY. I haven't been able to find any more that general >information on the company itself. Does anyone here have any idea how >popular this item was or any info? Estimated value? Photo's can bee seen >at: http://www.geocities.com/captsct2000/Napanoch_multitool.html > As Todd says, "I kind of collect these things" Geocities won't let me in to see the pix, exceeded their limit of 2 viewers. Of course condition and completeness is everything. Plus, the price difference for bone, celluloid or stag handles is substantial to astounding. but Napanoch is a good name in cutlery. If nothing else you'd be happy using their steel, I guarantee. Welcome aboard. yours, Scott *** Scott Grandstaff, Box 409, Happy Camp, CA 96039 **** Tools:http://users.snowcrest.net/kitty/sgrandstaff/ ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
|||
158436 | "Scott Matthews" <samat3@v...> | 2006‑03‑20 | New Galoot intro and questions |
First of all since that seems to be the custom, I'd like to introduce myself. I'm Scott Matthews living in the Hampton Roads area of Virginia. My general interests are general woodworking. (Most has been w/ power tools so far.) Carving, marquetry, backpacking (AT Trail name "Davey Jones"), and am getting into Kayaking. I just got into collecting old tools and am starting with wooden bodied planes. While browsing an antique store recently I picked up 3 molding planes to start off the collection. The price seemed a lot better than I had seen at other shops, but after getting home, and doing some research, I still see that I probably over paid by twice. Guess that shows just how over priced the other shops are. These planes are: (all 3 stamped with owners initials WSS) Auburn Tool Co., Auburn N.Y. No. 180 - 8 Owasco Tool Co. 177 -7/8 (I see that this was made by Auburn Tool, Co.) J T Brown 1 1/4" wide blade round over Cannot find any reference to planes by J T Brown. Possibly previous owner? Tang of cutting blade is marked W. Butcher. Other blades are not marked. Web seems to indicate this is an after market blade from England. Possibly a "home made" plane? Not really knowing I would guess the condition if fair. The blades need some clean up work, but should be usable. One has a broken wedge, where you grip it to insert/pull out, but the "wedge" part is intact, holds firm, and can be removed OK. I figured I could make a new wedge if need be. All have a nice dark patina, have been used, but not obviously abused. Question #1: After I finish my current marquetry project, I'm thinking of making a cedar strip kayak. To do this I need a couple hundred 16' long strips of 1/4" cedar. So I'm keeping an eye out for a matched set of 1/4" diam (1/8"r ?) hollow and round planes to mate up the strips and deal with the curved hull. Where would be the best place to keep an eye open, and what should I expect to pay? What should I do to keep the planes, especially the hollowing blade, centered and not drift off the edge? Practice, practice, practice?????? Each strip will only be 1" wide. Could I mount the planes in a bench vise and run the strips over the planes, much like I was going to do with a router table? Question #2: After lurking for a while I'm starting to appreciate all the old stuff my dad used to have when I was a kid. Unfortunately, most of those tools are long gone. One item I do have is a pre-leather man multitool knife set that was supposedly my grandfathers. It has everything except a pair of pliers. Each tool snaps into the handle as needed. Made by the Napanoch Knife Co. of Napanoch, NY. I haven't been able to find any more that general information on the company itself. Does anyone here have any idea how popular this item was or any info? Estimated value? Photo's can bee seen at: http://www.geocities.com/captsct2000/Napanoch_multitool.html Question #3: Back to my current marquetry project. It's a round table, and I want to put a molded edge on the outer ring. Are there any molding planes made for doing curved edges, or a special technique for doing this with straight planes? I'd like a nice wide (7/8" -1" wide) classical ogee edge. Again, any ideas where to look and general price to expect? Question #4: Anyone else living in this area that could teach me the finer points of grading the condition of wooden planes, and maybe clue me into local shops that have a good selection, and not grossly over priced? Thanks in advance for the feedback. (and I hope I got this properly in plain text format.) Scott, Two paths diverged in the woods. I took the one with white blazes. That made all the difference. Baltimore Jack ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
|||
158439 | Anthony Seo <tonyseo@m...> | 2006‑03‑20 | Re: New Galoot intro and questions |
At 10:24 AM 3/20/2006, Scott Matthews wrote: >J T Brown 1 1/4" wide blade round over >Cannot find any reference to planes by J T Brown. Possibly previous owner? >Tang of cutting blade is marked W. Butcher. Other blades are not marked. >Web seems to indicate this is an after market blade from England. Possibly >a "home made" plane? Nope not at all. John T. Brown was a plane and edge tool maker in Baltimore MD 1824-1843. His planes are rated 1 star for rarity meaning that there are between 250 and 500 known examples. The W Butcher iron is correct for that vintage tool and if my some what intermittent memory is semi-functional this AM, I recall haveing had 1 or 2 of his planes with Butcher Irons. I'll let someone else answer the technical questions, save to say that complex moulding planes for making cuts on outer round surfaces are pretty much non-existent. You will occasionally see one that is a compass or inner round plane but those are pretty scarce as well. Here is a picture of one from my stash http://oldetoolshop.com/jointer/miscpics/rplane5a.jpg A scratch stock which is a scraper cut to a specific profile will work the best for what you are looking for. Welcome to the porch. Tony Olde River Hard Goods 350 West Catawissa Street Nesquehoning PA 18240 570-669-9421 The best old tool store in Pennsylvania! http://www.oldetoolshop.com ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
|||
158449 | Greg Tucker <gstucker@v...> | 2006‑03‑20 | Re: New Galoot intro and questions |
On 20 Mar, 2006, at 10:24 AM, Scott Matthews wrote: > First of all since that seems to be the custom, I'd like to introduce > myself. > Welcome, Scott. Sounds like you have some great projects lined up. Good luck with them; I'm sure you'll find the porch a most useful resource. > Question #1: > What should I do to keep the planes, especially the hollowing > blade, centered and not drift off the edge? Surely there's a standard proven method - if so, the answer will be forthcoming from someone soon. But just in case it's not, I thought you might try a setup like a sticking board. This is a simple jig that sash makers use to plane the profiles in muntins. It is well illustrated in Roy Underhill's second book, The Woodwright's Companion. What? You say you don't have this book? Are you nuts?! It is now published with the first book as a single volume, The Woodwright's shop. If you are looking for it online, make sure you are getting a volume of about 380 pages - then you'll know it has both 190-page books. Anyway, a sticking board is a long board you clamp on your benchtop along the front edge. It has a rabbet which holds the strip of stock to be planed, and supports it against flexing. Additionally, the back edge of the rabbet stands proud of the strip of work, so that the plane has a little fence to run along. There is a stop at one end of the board (usually a small flat-head screw) which keeps the strip from scooting away. I have no idea if this is what was normally used, but I bet it would work nicely. Regards, Greg T. ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
|||
158466 | Trevor Robinson <robinson@b...> | 2006‑03‑20 | Re: New Galoot intro and questions |
Hi, Scott (and others) Yes, a scratch stock is the way to go, but you need two blades, both with the same profile, but beveled on opposite sides. One will go around the table in a clockwise direction and the other one counterclockwise. This may sound like an early April Fools joke, but it's not, because as you approach end-grain you need to scrape "downhill". I learned this when making a ship's wheel. Trevor ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
|||
158481 | Steven Longley <sclongley@s...> | 2006‑03‑20 | Re: New Galoot intro and questions |
Scott Mathews wrote: My general interests are general woodworking... |
|||
158483 | "John Manners" <jmanners@p...> | 2006‑03‑21 | Re: New Galoot intro and questions |
Scott Matthews writes: > Tang of cutting blade is marked W. Butcher. Other blades are not marked. > Web seems to indicate this is an after market blade from England. Possibly > a "home made" plane? Dunno whether this helps or confuses. I have, as a long-ago gift from my brother who then traded in antique arms and armour, a knife marked, so far as I can decipher, "W. & S. Butcher" followed on the next line by "J? R. Gravely & Wreaks" and followed on the next line by "New York". The knife, in, as I understand it, the Jim Bowie pattern, is adorned with German silver and with horn scales and has received no use from me in circumstances where it measures 17 1/2" overall and has a blade 12 1/4" long and 2" wide. Daresay the frontiersmen ancestors of some of the Murrican Galoots built their log cabins and quartered their own buffaloes using one of these things as their only tool. Regards from Brisbane John Manners ------------------------------------------------------------------------ |
|||
Recent | Bios | FAQ |