OldTools Archive
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137752 | Kirk Eppler <eppler.kirk@g...> | 2004‑10‑14 | Re: 220 help, more questions, and short bio |
White oak, esp quarter sawn, can be a bear to plane. I've found that a super sharp blade is a good start, tight mouth required. But even then, my Knight high angle smoother can't do everything. I use my LN112 to finish off the grain reversals, and a card scraper for other bits where my patience runs out. My dull 05 with a wide mouth created boatloads more work than I was ready for on my last tabletop. And a certain lunchbox p)w#r planer just made it worse. Nebraska Rod TerMaat asked: > > Question 3: Tear out - planing some white oak. There were sections > where the grain seemed to change directions and my planed surface goes > from smooth to jagged. Is this more of an angle of the blade issue, > wrong plane, or ID10T error. -- Kirk Eppler in Half Moon Bay, CA Process Development Engineering Eppler.Kirk@g... |
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137748 | Rod TerMaat <rtermaat@a...> | 2004‑10‑14 | 220 help, more questions, and short bio |
Thank you all for your past answers to my questions. I have learned a lot reading these messages daily. Question 1: I just bought my first set of planes of the bay and found that I am missing the adjustment mechanism on the 220 block plane. The thumb screw is there, but the part that contacts the blade (in the slots) is missing. What a bummer. I was hoping to clean and sharpen it last night. That is one definite drawback to not being able to handle / examine the item before purchase. Live and learn. Is this part worth pursuing at the present time, or should I just buy another and hope for better luck next time. Does someone offer parts for sale? I did get a nice wooden jack plane a ragged coffin smother and a wooden rabbit plane all for under 20 bucks. So I am not complaining. Question 2: Flattening a board. My method for identifying high spots is to mist my reference surface and lay the board on the surface. The high spots show by absorbing the water. Is this an ok method? It seems to work well for me, but does not help the surface of my table saw (gift from father in-law) which is the flattest item I could think to use. Question 3: Tear out - planing some white oak. There were sections where the grain seemed to change directions and my planed surface goes from smooth to jagged. Is this more of an angle of the blade issue, wrong plane, or ID10T error. Question 4: Recommendations for wood that has nice properties and works easy with hand tools. So far walnut is my favorite, but the dark color is not appropriate for all applications. I have found that white oak is too hard for my tastes, I also seem to like soft maple. Other options other than pine or popular? nebraska rod short bio. Born, raised, and rarely leave Nebraska. Biochemistry degree. Work as computer programmer for insurance company (more $ and no microscopes - that give me headaches). Been a amateur galoot for a while, but never real good. This may be because of wrong tools, no training, or no skills. My dad tells me it is because "Code jockeys" are not meant to build things. Starting my first adult ed class tonight - it is power tool based. The appeal of hand tools has taken me because of the Zen like quietness of the process, and that I can work at night without the misses telling me to be quite. I am currently working on a toolbox to carry my hand tools built with white oak and walnut. Thus far everything has been done with hand tools including ripping the (hard as stone) white oak. I have a special affinity for Japanese saws, methods, and hand planes. Oh yes, I am 33 have a only 1 wife and 1 son (8) and live in Lincoln. **** This message may contain confidential information intended only for the use of the addressee(s) named above and may contain information that is legally privileged. If you are not the addressee, or the person responsible for delivering it to the addressee, you are hereby notified that reading, disseminating, distributing or copying this message is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message by mistake, please immediately notify us by replying to the message and delete the original message immediately thereafter. Thank you. **** |
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137756 | "Frank Filippone" <red735i@e...> | 2004‑10‑14 | RE: 220 help, more questions, and short bio |
Soft maple, walnut, and beech are all good US species woods to work. Also any fruitwood ( pear, apple, etc) are good to work and are traditional furniture woods, they just are not commercial varieties. Frank Filippone red735i@e... |
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137754 | Clif Palmberg <clif.palmberg@g...> | 2004‑10‑14 | Re: 220 help, more questions, and short bio |
>Question 4: >Recommendations for wood that has nice properties and works easy with hand Native Walnut. I've worked with some walnut that came from the northwest corner of Kansas. It is a treat to work with. Buttery responsiveness to sharp blades and chisels, great finished product grain and a completely hypnotizing aroma while being worked. -Clif in Dallas |
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137750 | Richard.Wilson@s... | 2004‑10‑14 | Re: 220 help, more questions, and short bio |
Welcome to the porch Rod, you're in the right place for some zen woodworking. you asked. . . >Question 2: Flattening a board. My method for identifying high spots is >to mist my reference surface i confess I've never done this, or heard of it being done on wood. The fact of absorbing water will alter the timber you're trying to dimension. The common way is to use a long plane, which provides its own reference surface. If you span the board with one corner of the plane you can squint down and check for light. You will see deviations down to about 10 thou. Jeffs site has excellent instructions on the procedure, and I can do no better than advise you go there. >Question 3: Tear out - planing some white oak. There were sections >where the grain Start by adjusting for a finer shaving, perhaps a much finer shaving. and resharpen your blade. If you haven't already, look at the references to how to sharpen. The famous scary sharp with a roller jig of some sort is a near foolproof way of getting a good sharp edge. Once you're familiar with what a *sharp* blade does, you know what to aim for using any other sharpening method. Apprentices used to do sharpening because its a long old job on an oilstone, and it's a fundamental skill and item of knowledge all woodworkers must have to be any good at their chosen pastime. If a really shrp blade set for a fine shaving still has some tear out, then alter the direction of the cut to favour the tear out. One never planes *into* the grain, so if the grain, viewed 'sideways' runs like ///// plane left to right, if it's \\\\ go right to left (or turn the work around of course) The next step would be to move to a smoothing plane with a very tight set mouth, and an even sharper blade. Then you might finally need to resort to scrapers. Or throw away that component and remake it from more tractable timber. - Success sarts with the timber selection for appearance *and grain direction* you know. and finally >Question 4: Recommendations for wood that has nice properties and works easy with hand tools. This is personal preference stuff - I like oak, for its appearance, strength, and the smell when I'm working it. Chestnut, Ash maybe. Beech is good, but plain in appearance. i try not to use foreign hardwoods these days. You may receive lots of 'conflicting' opinions - there are lots of ways of working with wood. We spent most of human kinds history inventing them.. Enjoy Richard Wilson Yorkshireman Galoot ----------------------------------------------------------------------- ---------- For information on Christian Salvesen visit our website at www.salvesen.com. The information contained in this e-mail is strictly confidential and for the use of the addressee only; it may also be legally privileged and / or price sensitive. Notice is hereby given that any disclosure, use or copying of the information by anyone other than the intended recipient is prohibited and may be illegal. If you have received this message in error, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail. Christian Salvesen has taken every reasonable precaution to ensure that any attachment to this e-mail has been swept for viruses. However, we cannot accept liability for any damage sustained as a result of software viruses and would advise that you carry out your own virus checks before opening any attachment. Christian Salvesen is a trading name of the Christian Salvesen Group. Christian Salvesen PLC (Company number SC7173) is the ultimate holding company within the Christian Salvesen Group whose registered office is at 16 Charlotte Square, Edinburgh EH2 4DF. |
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