I more and more find that my "techniques" simply compensate for my
errors and inadequacies.
I have lots of strips of hardwood with dowel legs that fit in my
dogholes that I use as stops. I shim them so the top of the strip is
the thickness I want on the stock and use them as a visual indicator
(and a bit of a jig,). Works well for me -- nice positive indicator
and easy thing to sight on if needed.
I mostly use a herringbone pattern going in to the center for any
substantial stock removel . This corrects my unfortunate tendency to
plane too much around the periphery and too little from the center--
Jeff Gorman's "dreaded droop" . It also mostly avoids blow out.
John Lederer
Oregon, Wisconsin
Louis Michaud wrote:
>OK, maybe tearout is not the correct word. Blow out, splinters, divots ?
>In difficult hardwood this occurs sometimes along the edges when using
>a scrub and planing along a diagonal. The bevel is planed along the edges
>"with" the grain first, then planed on the cross grain edges. No blow outs
>at the ends. I use the bevels mainly for a visual reference. I can scub/plane
>a lot faster without having to bend and squint at the gauge lines. Insurance
>against blow out is secondary. The final plane strokes, along the grain, with
>a #6 or #7 bring it to the final thickness.
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