Well, Ed, in theory seaming veneer is relatively straight forward.� But 
like many things you don't know what you don't know.� I've had good luck 
with a considerable pile of veneered panels in projects the last couple 
years, but no seaming.� On one small box I tried seaming a 12-inch piece 
for the bottom.� I clamped the edges in a pair of straight boards, 
sanded them straight and square, easily taped the joint together, and 
glued it down.� It looked perfect until I took a sander to it.� After 
sanding half the joint looked like it had a rolled edge (no I won't 
explain that).� The problem may have been in the yard-sale veneer I was 
using.� I'd practice on something expendable before I'd tackle my 
expensive finished project.

I've placed a couple orders with Veneer Supplies and have been satisfied 
with their products and service; no affiliation.

-- 
Bill W.
Nottingham, PA
Woodworkers visit me at http://billwebber.galootcentral.com/

On 12/17/2018 4:26 PM, Ed Minch wrote:
> Bill
>
> Poking around their site, I think that curly sycamore could be taken 
> for curly maple:
>
> https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/AAA-Fiddleback-English-
Sycamore-Veneer-Lot--625-x-68-4-Sheets-Per-
Lot.html#">https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/AAA-Fiddleback-English-
Sycamore-Veneer-Lot--625-x-68-4-Sheets-Per-Lot.html#
>
> I am not afraid of a joint - should I be??
>
> Ed Minch
>
>
>
>
>> On Dec 17, 2018, at 1:37 PM, Bill Webber > <mailto:ol2lrus@v...>> wrote:
>>
>> Ed,
>>
>> You don't say what orientation you are looking for, or whether your 
>> doors will be framed or frameless.� Here are some relatively large 
>> pieces of fiddle back maple.� A single glue joint is doable though I 
>> would avoid trying if possible.
>>
>> https://www.veneersupplies.com/search.php?search_query=fiddle+back&page=2
>>
>> --
>> Bill W.
>
-- 
Bill W.
Nottingham, PA
Woodworkers visit me at http://billwebber.galootcentral.com/